Grandmaster Chef: Boris Gulko

by Mike Walder
2/20/2021 – Grandmaster Boris Gulko is the only player to have won both the USSR and USA Chess Championships. He has been a candidate for World Champion. In his honor, I will prepare a recipe I hope he would enjoy and annotate the game Gulko – Mikhalchishin from the 1981 Soviet First League Championship. | Photo: Les Glassman

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An accomplished GM

Boris GulkoBoris Gulko is a grandmaster, author and certified FIDE Senior Trainer who, at 30 years of age, won the USSR Championship in 1977 ahead of three world champions. He lost seven years of what could have been his best years of chess for being a “refusenik” before emigrating with his family to the United States, where Boris twice won the U.S. Championship, in 1994 and 1999. He played in the candidates in 1995 and 2000 and qualified to play at the 2004 World Chess Championship in Libya, but withdrew because of antisemitic remarks made by the organizer.

Boris has an impressive three win, one loss, and four draw record against Garry Kasparov. His result in Niksic 1978, where he and Jan Timman shared first 1½ points ahead of a very strong field put him in the spotlight.

About

Boris has written several books and was a regular columnist about things other than chess. Boris’ Lessons with a Grandmaster series is both entertaining and informative.

Boris is now living in Jerusalem with his wife WGM Anna Akhsharumova (also a USSR and U.S. Women’s Champion and part of the 1990 U.S. Olympic Women’s Team).

For more about his life, I recommend watching Les Glassman Interviewing Boris Gulko.


The Recipe

For Boris, I will make the Russian Salmon Pie, Kulebyaka.

Kulebyaka by Mike Walder

Ingredients

  • 1 tablespoon turmeric
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon paprika
  • 1 red onion, diced
  • ½ pound chopped mushrooms
  • ½ head green cabbage, cored and shredded
  • 1 lemon, juiced
  •  salt and black pepper, to taste
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 pound skinless salmon fillet
  • 2 sheets homemade or store-bought puff pastry
  • 2 cups cooked basmati rice
  • 3 eggs, two hard-boiled, the other beaten
  • ½ cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese (substitute feta)
  • ½ cup fine bread crumbs
  • 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
  • optional dollops of sour cream to taste (substitute plain yogurt or crème fraiche)

Directions

  1. Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees.
  2. Heat olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add salmon and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook salmon 5 minutes per side; remove to a plate and let cool. Flake salmon into large chunks and set aside.
  3. Add butter to the oil; reduce to medium-low heat. Add onion and turmeric, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender  (about 8 minutes). Stir in mushrooms, cabbage and lemon juice; increase heat to medium. Cover pan and cook 5 minutes; uncover, toss and cook 3 more minutes. Remove vegetables from pan, season with salt and pepper to taste, and set aside.
  4. Set a sheet of puff pastry on a lightly floured surface. Gently roll out until it is large enough to fit a 9 inch deep dish pie plate. Transfer pastry to pie plate, allowing extra dough to drape over edge.
  5. Spread basmati rice over bottom of pastry. Peel and chop the hard-boiled eggs, then add to pie, followed by flaked salmon. Sprinkle with paprika, cheese, then bread crumbs. Mound vegetable mixture on top. Sprinkle with parsley.
  6. Roll out remaining sheet of puff pastry on a lightly floured surface until it is large enough to cover pie. Brush rim of bottom pastry with water and place second sheet of pastry directly on top. Trim off excess dough. Use a fork to crimp the edges of the pie together and help the sheets of pastry adhere.
  7. Cut a few small slits in the top of the pie to allow steam to escape. Brush top of pie with beaten egg. Bake until pastry is puffed and golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes.

Russian Salmon Pie, kulebyaka

Position after 11.e4! next to the Russian Salmon Pie


The Game

The game Gulko – Mikhalchishin from the Soviet Championship 1981 shows how a peaceful looking Catalan can suddenly develop a raging kingside attack.

 
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1.c4 Russian Salmon Pie is comfort food, all warm and savory. A solid meal complete with a balanced mixture of food groups baked in a pie. e6 2.d4 Nf6 3.Nf3 d5 4.g3 The Catalan is a solid opening leading to comfortable positions. Often White's strategy is to use his space advantage to squeeze his opponent. This is one of the other times. dxc4 5.Bg2 b5 6.a4 c6 7.Ne5 Nd5 8.axb5 cxb5 9.Nc3 Bb4 10.0-0 Bxc3
11.e4!?N Just like adding turmeric, paprica, lemon and pepper, Boris spices thing up nicely. 11.bxc3 Nd7 12.e4?! 12.Ba3+- 12...Nxc3 13.Qf3?! 13.Nxf7‼ Kxf7 14.Qf3+ Nf6 15.e5 Ncd5 16.exf6 Qxf6 17.Qh5+ Qg6 18.Qf3+ Kg8 19.Qa3 Qf7 20.Qd6 Qd7 21.Qe5 Bb7 22.f4 a6 23.f5 exf5 24.Rxf5 Nf6 25.Bxb7 Qxb7 26.Bh6= 13...Nxe5 14.Qxc3 Nd3 15.Ba3 Bb7 16.Rad1 a5 17.Bc5 Rc8 18.f4 Ba6 19.f5 e5 20.f6 gxf6 21.Bh3 Rxc5 22.dxc5 b4 23.Qc2 Qd4+ 24.Kh1 b3 25.Qd2 c3 26.Qh6 c2 27.Qxf6 Nf2+ 28.Kg2 cxd1Q 29.Qc6+ Ke7 30.Qc7+ Kf8 31.Rxd1 Qxe4+ 0-1 (31) Gereben,E-Enklaar,B Wijk aan Zee 1972 11...Ne7 11...Bxb2 12.Bxb2 Ne7 13.Nxf7 Kxf7 14.Qh5+ Kg8 15.Qxb5 12.bxc3 f6?? Until now, White's play was largely in the center. This move invites White to launch a kingside attack. 12...Nd7 13.Ng4 a5 14.d5 e5 15.Ne3 0-0 16.d6 Ng6 17.h4 h5 18.Nd5 Nf6 19.Nxf6+ gxf6 20.Qxh5 Qxd6 21.Bh6 Re8 22.f4 13.Qh5+ g6 14.Nxg6 Black's position falls apart like puff pastry under the fork. Nxg6 15.e5 Nc6 16.Bxc6+ Bd7 17.Bxa8 Qxa8 18.Bh6 Kf7 19.exf6 a5 20.Bg7 a4 21.Bxh8 Qxh8 22.d5 e5 White has many ways to win, with f4 being an obvious and strong continuation.
1–0
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WhiteEloWBlackEloBResYearECOEventRnd
Gulko,B2590Mikhalchishin,A25351–01981E04URS-ch49 Volgodonsk 19813

The Catalan is one of the most solid openings for White. It forms part of the large and strong fianchetto family in which White builds his strategy mainly around the bishop on g2. Grandmaster Victor Bologan covers all of Black’s replies to the Catalan, some of which can even transpose to other openings such as the Tarrasch System and the Queen’s Indian. Suffice it to say that the Catalan rules!


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Mike Walder is a US Chess National Master from the San Francisco Bay area. His hobbies are gourmet cooking, drinking premium coffees, and listening to eclectic music. He teaches private chess lessons, specializing in opening preparation. You can reach Mike at mswalder@gmail.com

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