The magic of Madagascar (1/2)

Mt. Kilimanjaro, an image I worked quite hard for! Initially I was really happy to have a stop-over in Nairobi, on my way to Madagascar, even though it was a rather long one: seven hours. I knew I would get the chance to see what it is depicted in the photo but I didn't expect I would be unable to get a window seat (Ed: Lacking the technique of Nigel Short?), so I begged, crawled, stepped on other people's feet etc. until I succeeded.

Like in the chicken or the egg dilemma, I sometimes wonder who makes the first move in a recurring "variation" on my life board: is it the adventure that keeps coming along my ways or, on the contrary, am I a daredevil who constantly seeks and craves thrills and new experiences? Perhaps it is the fault of mutual attraction that made us orbit, lobby and send out feelers until the inevitable laws of hazard lighted upon us - we flew into each others' arms.

Rice based diet and its culture has been brought on the island by the Asian travelers

Gorgeous sunrises on the rice paddies

For the locals, it is a part of everyday life, but for the shutterbug, it means great opportunities

Our chess life, with everything it brings along with it, beats the movies in absolutely all possible, imaginable and unimaginable ways! Consider this: What are the odds of making not one, but two chess trips to Africa, in a very short period of time and without any planning and completely by surprise?

In fact, what are the odds that I, a European resident, would already be on the African continent, in Angola more precisely, but having to fly back to Europe and after a one-day break return to mother Africa as fresh as a daisy? It turned out to be “easier” that way, in terms of flying times, costs and connections but it was a very small price to pay for a fabulous (yet too short) trip to Madagascar!

Madagascar is an endless source of breathtaking views begging to be photographed...

...Need I say more?

I guess the locals know the exact train schedule...

I actually had a perfect ticket, all booked and checked in, except the worker in Antananarivo's airport ruined my plans and put the kibosh on my returning flights. It was only at the gate in Paris, where I had my connection to Amsterdam, that I discovered to my astonishment that I was actually checked in on a different flight, according to my “new” ticket! Of course a lot of talks, lost baggage and so forth emerged from it, so do always check those papers you are handed in the airport, especially the connecting flight...

Nature is always close to the inhabitants - washing at the river; in the background you can
see the building site for new homes...

...and a close up of the building site

But all these experiences just spice up my life and I must say I would feel poorer without them. Traveling is a great teacher and even if sometimes being a chess player has its occupational hazards, everything you feel, see and learn on your trips is worth every drop of sweat and effort. Besides, I recently learned to cope being away from home, since home is with me, in me... So off to Madagascar to play its 2015 International Open!

Alina L'Ami - Miloud Mezouaghi (knight sacrifice no.1)

Not an easy job...and I complain about my washing machine that makes too much noise or whatever

Happy to meet happy people!

I got warnings all the time to watch my camera and take care...but life seems to be quite
peaceful on Antananarivo's streets. Just a bit chaotic.

One of my favourite shots from uphill in Antananarivo

Street food

My daily route to the tournament hall

An attempt to keep traffic under control

Another way to transport your stuff

Many of Madagascar's inhabitants are the Indonesian-looking Merina people,...

...with distinct features. However...

... some carry the expected African influence as well.

Frankly speaking, I knew nothing about this stunning island. In my ignorance I assumed it should be warm, similar to other African countries I have visited (perhaps along the lines of Angola or Tanzania), mostly famous for its lemurs and baobabs and only a short chess history. I was wrong on every account. My broad knowledge, acquired through the cartoon “Madagascar” misguided me even further – no, there are no penguins here! Luckily I wised up after Antananarivo taught me some good lessons.

The tournament hall

The organizers FMJE (Chess Federation of Madagascar), supported by the Kasparov Chess
Foundation Africa, did a great job in organizing the event, giving the opportunity to all these
talented players to improve their game, their rating and meet titled players from overseas.

If you ever plan to come to Madagascar, which I highly recommend, get ready to be shocked, obviously in a positive direction, by its people and culture, geography and wildlife, climate, food and daily life. I wish I could have spent at least a month there, to bring you all its vivid and colorful impressions, but the six days I spent in
Antananarivo were lived to the maximum, in an attempt to bring you a slice of this amazing land and share with you the indefinable feeling that followed me throughout the whole experience, including during the games: this is unreal, I just can't believe any of it, I am here! It was like living inside a painting created by both Dali and Monet together – surreal, impressionistic, unique.

Thabo Elisha - Alina L'Ami (knight sacrifice no.2)

What you can see in Antananarivo (and on the tournament poster)

Alina L'Ami - Harison Andriamandimbisoa (knight sacrifice no.3)

The extremely cold weather though, eight degrees Celsius (!!) in the early morning or late evening, was what it took to jolt me out of my day dream. After all, I had a very tough schedule ahead, arriving in the late evening, giving a lecture the next day, followed by the first game, and double rounds each day until the end of the tournament.