Summertime chess in iconic Paris park

by Dhananjay Khadilkar
7/20/2019 – Today, July 20th, is International Chess Day! To mark the occasion, Paris-based journalist DHANANJAY KHADILKAR brings us a scene from the famous Jardin du Luxembourg (pictured, the French Senate) where permanent chess tables have been a fixture for two decades, and you can always find a blitz game or two. Around the world, some chess aficionados take to the great outdoors and some new chess maps can help you find chess wherever you are. | Photos: Dhananjay Khadilkar

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Checkmate. That's the aim of the game. There are numerous ways to checkmate the enemy king, but there are common patterns that recur over and over again, and having these at our mental fingertips is essential for when we want to finish the game.

Bastille Day blitz!

If you happen to be in Paris and are passionate about chess, there’s no better place to enjoy the game, either as a player or as a spectator, than at the Jardin du Luxembourg. 

During the summer, on average, more than 25 players match wits daily in the 17th century park that is located in the tres chic 6th arrondissement of the French capital. 

Twenty years ago, the French senate decided to provide a dozen tables — five fixed, seven mobile — with chess boards painted on the surface using screen printing technique. These table tops are made of enamelled lava stones that were extracted from the volcanic mountains in the Auvergne region of central France. 

Volcanic rock squares

Volcanic rock from the Auvergne region

Blitz players

Everyone is welcome

The table tops are large to accommodate chess clocks adjacent to the boards whose squares are alternately painted in sepia and white.

Almost everyone here plays blitz chess, with the 3-minute time control being the most popular. These fast paced encounters demand a certain skill set from players who have to constantly think on their feet.

This format guarantees entertaining chess as pieces tumble and clocks take severe pounding as the two rivals try to make the best moves by using least time. 

While many games are decided by the clock, there are some that produce a checkmate like this one, played on Sunday, July 14th (Bastille Day!), between 1900-2000 Elo rated players, which you can watch in real-time below. White delivered checkmate with just two seconds left on his clock!

 
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MoveNResultEloPlayers
1.e41,170,31954%2421---
1.d4949,86755%2434---
1.Nf3282,62856%2440---
1.c4182,73156%2442---
1.g319,74556%2427---
1.b314,34754%2427---
1.f45,91748%2377---
1.Nc33,81651%2384---
1.b41,75948%2379---
1.a31,22254%2404---
1.e31,07349%2409---
1.d395550%2378---
1.g466646%2361---
1.h444953%2374---
1.c343551%2426---
1.h328356%2419---
1.a411460%2465---
1.f39346%2435---
1.Nh39066%2505---
1.Na34262%2482---
1.e4 c5 2.Nf3 d6 3.Bb5+ Bd7 4.Bxd7+ Nxd7 5.0-0 Ngf6 6.Re1 e5 B52: Sicilian: Moscow Variation with 3...Bd7 6...e6= 6...Qc7 7.c3 Rc8 8.d3 e6 9.Bf4 Be7 10.Nbd2 0-0 11.h3 Rfd8 12.a4 Qc6 13.Qe2 Qa6 14.Nc4 d5 15.exd5 Nxd5 0-1 (55) Anton Guijarro,D (2642)-Korobov,A (2698) St Petersburg 2018 7.c3 7.d3 7...Be7 8.d4 8.d3 8...Qc7 8...0-0= 9.d5 0-0 9...c4= 10.a4N 10.c4 Predecessor: 10.c4 Rae8 11.Nc3 a6 12.a3 1-0 (89) Deschin,P (1880) -Lambin,J (1680) Herlies 2002 10...a6 10...c4= 11.a5 c4 12.Nbd2 Rac8 12...Rfc8= 13.Qe2 Rfe8 14.Ra4 Nc5 14...h6 15.Rxc4± Black must now prevent b4. b5 16.axb6! Qxb6 17.b4 Na4 18.Qe3 18.Nb1± 18...Qb5 18...Qxe3= keeps the balance. 19.Rxe3 Rxc4 20.Nxc4 Rc8 19.Rxc8 Rxc8 20.Nb1 20.c4± Qxb4 21.Ba3 20...Qc4 20...Bd8 21.Bd2 21.Nfd2± Qb5 22.Na3 21...Qb3 21...h6 22.h3 22.Qa7 Re8 23.Qxa6 22...Nb2 22...Ra8± 23.Rc1 White should try 23.Qa7+- 23...Nc4 23...h6 24.Qd3 24.Qa7± 24...Qb2 White should prevent ... Nxe4! 25.Re1 Nd7 25...a5 26.Be3 Nf6 26...a5 27.Nfd2 Nxd2 28.Bxd2 Don't play 28.Qxa6 Nxb1 29.Qxc8+ Bf8± 28...Qa2 29.f3 29.Be3 29...Bd8 29...Nh5 30.Be3 Nd7 31.Qd2 31.Re2 Qa4 32.Qc2 31...Qc4 32.Qe2 Hoping for Qxc4. Bb6 Better is 32...a5 33.Qxc4 Rxc4 34.Bxb6 Nxb6       Endgame KRN-KRN 35.Kf1 35.Rc1+- 35...Na4 35...f5± 36.Rc1 36.exf5 Nxd5 37.g4 Nxc3= 36...Na4 36.Re3 White should play 36.Nd2+- Rc8 37.Ra1 Nxc3 38.Rxa6 36...g6 37.Ke2 f5 38.Kd3 Nb2+ 39.Kc2 Na4 40.Kb3 Nb6 41.Nd2 Rc8 42.c4 f4 42...Rb8 43.exf5 gxf5 43.Rc3 c5 is the strong threat. Nd7 44.Kb2 Rb8 45.Ka3 Kf8 46.Nb3 Ke7 47.c5 g5 48.Na5 dxc5 48...Ra8 49.cxd6+ Ke8 49.Nc6++-      
Double Attack, Zwischenzug 49...Kd6 50.Nxb8 aiming for bxc5+. Nxb8 51.bxc5+ KR-KN Kc7 52.Rb3 Nd7 53.Kb4 a5+ 54.Kc4 a4 55.Ra3 Kb7 56.Rxa4 Kc7 57.Rb4 57.Ra7+ Kd8 58.c6 Nb6+ 59.Kc5 Nc8 60.Rxh7 Ke8 61.d6 Kf8 62.d7 57...Nb8 58.d6+ White mates. Kc8 59.Kd5 Nd7 60.c6 Nf6+ 61.Ke6 Nh5 62.d7+ Kc7
63.Rb8!       Kxc6 63...Kxb8 64.d8Q+ 64.d8Q Kc5 65.Qd5# Accuracy: White = 51%, Black = 23%.
1–0
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WhiteEloWBlackEloBResYearECOEventRnd
Sotello,R2062Sivarajah,T19661–02019B52

These chess tables are located in a corner of a huge garden that spreads over an area of 25 hectares. The garden boasts a host of other attractions, so it's suitable for a visit by anyone.

Statues

(Left) Statues in Luxembourg park depict French queens | (Right) Author Stefan Zweig

Find places to play

There are new initiatives to help players and fans alike find chess destinations wherever they are. The European Chess Union has launched ChessWhere.com, which is focused on Europe but has aspirations to expand.

At the moment, the chess tables at Jardin du Luxembourg are not on the ChessWhere map, but you can find them on the recently re-branded Chess Map app (formerly Le Chess Connection) for iOS.

Chess Map tweet

A growing catalogue of chess tourist destinations, courtesy Chess Map

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Dhananjay is a Paris based journalist and a chess enthusiast. While he enjoys playing the game, he is more fascinated by the drama and history associated with it.

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