8/18/2023 – The FIDE World Cup is taking place in Baku. We decided to do a short tour of the Azerbaijani capital before the important event commenced. After reading a lot about must-see places in Baku and getting info from the locals, Icherisheher (Old City) seemed to be the perfect place to venture. In a little over three hours, I visited The Palace of Shirvanshahs, the award-winning Miniature Book Museum, Maiden Tower and Nizami Street. Let us have a look at what piqued my interest on a day when I walked 16230 steps — my longest walk of the year! | Photos: Shahid Ahmed
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Exploring Icherisheher
To explore any location on planet Earth, one needs to have maps. I downloaded offline Google Maps, but unfortunately it did not work. So I had to get a local SIM card. After going through an underpass three times, I finally managed to get a card of the desired network.
Since the metro station was nearby, it was the quickest and the recommended mode of transport, I decided to take it. However, somehow the machine to purchase the local metro card did not accept my card and I could not find an option to turn the default language into English. I asked a fellow traveller to help, he offered me his BakiKart (local metro card) and travelled with me to Icherisheher. He ensured that I went in the correct direction before parting ways. His parting gift was a BakiKart, as he had two.
Well, I met a good Samaritan and that definitely set a good mood. No wonder I could trudge 16230 steps.
Miniature of Icherisheher
The Genclik Mall
Before venturing into Icherisheher via metro (subway), I visited the Genclik Mall, not because I found it in the must-see list of places in the city. I visited because I needed a couple of things, including the local SIM card.
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Okay, it’s time to exit the mall and go towards Icherisheher (inner city).
A statue of Mirza Alakbar Sabir Tahirzadeh — Azerbaijani satirical poet, philosopher, teacher — outside the walls of Icherisheher
Most of Icherisheher has cobbled streets
While some may like walking on cobbled streets, some may prefer otherwise, I personally really like walking on cobbled streets. Maybe it has to do with my childhood fondness for trams in my city, Kolkata, before the tramlines were concretized. Or it has to do with the Before trilogy of movies (the first two were the best).
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As you must have seen before, the streets heading towards The Palace of Shirvanshahs have loads of restaurants on both sides — air-conditioned and open air, a wide variety of choices as per your heart’s desire. I generally prefer a quiet one, a restaurant which is not crowded, where by visiting I could make even a tiny bit of difference. I visited Kurban Said and enjoyed my Chicken Taba,k which is farm chicken with homemade potatoes, all fried.
Chicken Tabak
When I travel, I always prefer to have local cuisine. Just to get a taste and understand what the local residents prefer. It is also something I cannot have in my home city.
The view of Kurban Said restaurant from the outside. This is probably the last restaurant before you enter the Palace of the Shirvanshahs or turn towards the Museum of Miniature Books
Palace of the Shirvanshahs
Shirvanshahs Palace info at the entrance — on the left you climb the stairs to the Palace, while on the right you go towards the Miniature Book Museum (easy to miss)
The QR code and audio symbol are for those who want to experience everything in detail. Scanning the code allows you to download the app and get audio details at various places, wherever the symbol is shown. I did not try it as I was short on time and I generally prefer to see things at my own pace.
Carpet hanging on the wall of the Palace of Shirvanshahs
Can you identify the musical instruments? (Find the answer in the video below)
Does the quote or the poem sound familiar?
I finished exploring the entire portion of the Palace of the Shirvanshahs in an hour. Next I went to the Miniature Book Museum. I think I first saw it in The Amazing Race, the only reality show I watch because it is really that good.
Miniature Book Museum
Some books are really very small, like stamp size or maybe even smaller
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In the Sports and Olympic movement in the mini books section, I found a few chess books by Paul Keres, Vladimir Kramnik and probably Chess Informators too.
Paul Keres, Vladimir Kramnik and probably Chess Informator miniature chess books
My next stop was Maiden Tower, which is again in the vicinity of the previous two places. You can just walk and find it. It is certainly better to check local signs and ask local people than to rely on Google Maps as it doesn’t work properly here. Yandex maps was a bit off too for me.
Maiden Tower
Can you guess how many levels are there? If you have the time and energy, I would definitely recommend you, dear reader, to explore all levels and climb to the very top for a spectacular view of the city. I still do not know if this is the tallest historic place to get a view of the entire city. Maybe it is.
Part of the wooden pillar found in the buttress of the Maiden Tower
A very nice diorama of the Old Baku
Stairs of the Maiden Tower
View from the top of the Maiden Tower
Climbing eight floors was definitely worth all the time and energy. My mind momentarily forgot that there were eight floors, but the experience was amazing, difficult to describe in words.
Did you like this short trip to Baku? Have you visited any of the above places or, after reading, do you feel like visiting this city?
There are certainly more places to visit Baku. This is by no means an exhaustive list of must-see places. If you have suggestions of places to visit or to try various dishes at certain restaurants, please do not hesitate to let us know.
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Shahid AhmedShahid Ahmed is the senior coordinator and editor of ChessBase India. He enjoys covering chess tournaments and also likes to play in chess events from time to time.
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