8/18/2023 – The FIDE World Cup is taking place in Baku. We decided to do a short tour of the Azerbaijani capital before the important event commenced. After reading a lot about must-see places in Baku and getting info from the locals, Icherisheher (Old City) seemed to be the perfect place to venture. In a little over three hours, I visited The Palace of Shirvanshahs, the award-winning Miniature Book Museum, Maiden Tower and Nizami Street. Let us have a look at what piqued my interest on a day when I walked 16230 steps — my longest walk of the year! | Photos: Shahid Ahmed
new: Fritz 20
Your personal chess trainer. Your toughest opponent. Your strongest ally. FRITZ 20 is more than just a chess engine – it is a training revolution for ambitious players and professionals. Whether you are taking your first steps into the world of serious chess training, or already playing at tournament level, FRITZ 20 will help you train more efficiently, intelligently and individually than ever before.
Your personal chess trainer. Your toughest opponent. Your strongest ally. FRITZ 20 is more than just a chess engine – it is a training revolution for ambitious players and professionals. Whether you are taking your first steps into the world of serious chess training, or already playing at tournament level, FRITZ 20 will help you train more efficiently, intelligently and individually than ever before.
GM Blohberger presents a complete two-part repertoire for Black: practical, clear, and flexible – instead of endless theory, you’ll get straightforward concepts and strategies that are easy to learn and apply.
€49.90
Exploring Icherisheher
To explore any location on planet Earth, one needs to have maps. I downloaded offline Google Maps, but unfortunately it did not work. So I had to get a local SIM card. After going through an underpass three times, I finally managed to get a card of the desired network.
Since the metro station was nearby, it was the quickest and the recommended mode of transport, I decided to take it. However, somehow the machine to purchase the local metro card did not accept my card and I could not find an option to turn the default language into English. I asked a fellow traveller to help, he offered me his BakiKart (local metro card) and travelled with me to Icherisheher. He ensured that I went in the correct direction before parting ways. His parting gift was a BakiKart, as he had two.
Well, I met a good Samaritan and that definitely set a good mood. No wonder I could trudge 16230 steps.
Miniature of Icherisheher
The Genclik Mall
Before venturing into Icherisheher via metro (subway), I visited the Genclik Mall, not because I found it in the must-see list of places in the city. I visited because I needed a couple of things, including the local SIM card.
Does this simulation experience remind you of Lightcycles from the Tron universe?
In this Fritztrainer: “Attack like a Super GM” with Gukesh we touch upon all aspects of his play, with special emphasis on how you can become a better attacking player.
The video gamer in me could not resist bringing you a glimpse of an arcade which had a bowling alley too.
A new find: Halo Fireteam Raven — I have completed every single fps Halo game except Halo 5
Okay, it’s time to exit the mall and go towards Icherisheher (inner city).
A statue of Mirza Alakbar Sabir Tahirzadeh — Azerbaijani satirical poet, philosopher, teacher — outside the walls of Icherisheher
Most of Icherisheher has cobbled streets
While some may like walking on cobbled streets, some may prefer otherwise, I personally really like walking on cobbled streets. Maybe it has to do with my childhood fondness for trams in my city, Kolkata, before the tramlines were concretized. Or it has to do with the Before trilogy of movies (the first two were the best).
In this Videocourse we deal with different aspects of the middlegame which are important to study and improve your general understanding of chess structures.
As you must have seen before, the streets heading towards The Palace of Shirvanshahs have loads of restaurants on both sides — air-conditioned and open air, a wide variety of choices as per your heart’s desire. I generally prefer a quiet one, a restaurant which is not crowded, where by visiting I could make even a tiny bit of difference. I visited Kurban Said and enjoyed my Chicken Taba,k which is farm chicken with homemade potatoes, all fried.
Chicken Tabak
When I travel, I always prefer to have local cuisine. Just to get a taste and understand what the local residents prefer. It is also something I cannot have in my home city.
The view of Kurban Said restaurant from the outside. This is probably the last restaurant before you enter the Palace of the Shirvanshahs or turn towards the Museum of Miniature Books
Palace of the Shirvanshahs
Shirvanshahs Palace info at the entrance — on the left you climb the stairs to the Palace, while on the right you go towards the Miniature Book Museum (easy to miss)
The QR code and audio symbol are for those who want to experience everything in detail. Scanning the code allows you to download the app and get audio details at various places, wherever the symbol is shown. I did not try it as I was short on time and I generally prefer to see things at my own pace.
Carpet hanging on the wall of the Palace of Shirvanshahs
Can you identify the musical instruments? (Find the answer in the video below)
Does the quote or the poem sound familiar?
I finished exploring the entire portion of the Palace of the Shirvanshahs in an hour. Next I went to the Miniature Book Museum. I think I first saw it in The Amazing Race, the only reality show I watch because it is really that good.
Miniature Book Museum
Some books are really very small, like stamp size or maybe even smaller
This DVD allows you to learn from the example of one of the best players in the history of chess and from the explanations of the authors (Pelletier, Marin, Müller and Reeh) how to successfully organise your games strategically, consequently how to keep y
In the Sports and Olympic movement in the mini books section, I found a few chess books by Paul Keres, Vladimir Kramnik and probably Chess Informators too.
Paul Keres, Vladimir Kramnik and probably Chess Informator miniature chess books
My next stop was Maiden Tower, which is again in the vicinity of the previous two places. You can just walk and find it. It is certainly better to check local signs and ask local people than to rely on Google Maps as it doesn’t work properly here. Yandex maps was a bit off too for me.
Maiden Tower
Can you guess how many levels are there? If you have the time and energy, I would definitely recommend you, dear reader, to explore all levels and climb to the very top for a spectacular view of the city. I still do not know if this is the tallest historic place to get a view of the entire city. Maybe it is.
Part of the wooden pillar found in the buttress of the Maiden Tower
A very nice diorama of the Old Baku
Stairs of the Maiden Tower
View from the top of the Maiden Tower
Climbing eight floors was definitely worth all the time and energy. My mind momentarily forgot that there were eight floors, but the experience was amazing, difficult to describe in words.
Did you like this short trip to Baku? Have you visited any of the above places or, after reading, do you feel like visiting this city?
There are certainly more places to visit Baku. This is by no means an exhaustive list of must-see places. If you have suggestions of places to visit or to try various dishes at certain restaurants, please do not hesitate to let us know.
The Indian chess grandmaster Vidit Gujrathi with an ELO of over 2700 (June 2023) is one of the best 20 players in the world. For the first time, the sympathetic top player presents himself in a video course. Let a world-class player show you tactical moti
Shahid AhmedShahid Ahmed is the senior coordinator and editor of ChessBase India. He enjoys covering chess tournaments and also likes to play in chess events from time to time.
In this video course experts examine the games of Bent Larsen. Let them show you which openings Larsen chose, where his strength in middlegames were, how he outplayed his opponents in the endgame & you’ll get a glimpse of his tactical abilities!
From the 2026 Candidates Tournament, featuring a video review by Dorian Rogozenco, to Jan Werle’s opening video on the French Tarrasch Defence, and Oliver Reeh’s tactical column ‘Top Grandmasters at Work’. Analyses by Giri, So, Wei Yi and many others.
You will learn how Black's dynamic piece activity and structural counterplay more than compensate for White's extra tempo in the colour-reversed setups.
In this course, you’ll learn how to take the initiative against the London and prevent White from comfortably playing their usual system by playing 1.d4 Nf6 2.Bf4 Nh5.
London System Powerbase 2026 is a database and contains in all 11 285 games from Mega 2026 and the Correspondence Database 2026, of which 282 are annotated.
The London System Powerbook 2026 is based on more than 410 000 games or game fragments from different opening moves and ECO codes; what they all have in common is that White plays d4 and Bf4 but does not play c4.
In this course, Grandmaster Elisabeth Pähtz presents the London System, a structured and ambitious approach based on the immediate Bf4, leading to rich and dynamic positions.
€59.90
We use cookies and comparable technologies to provide certain functions, to improve the user experience and to offer interest-oriented content. Depending on their intended use, analysis cookies and marketing cookies may be used in addition to technically required cookies. Here you can make detailed settings or revoke your consent (if necessary partially) with effect for the future. Further information can be found in our data protection declaration.
Pop-up for detailed settings
We use cookies and comparable technologies to provide certain functions, to improve the user experience and to offer interest-oriented content. Depending on their intended use, cookies may be used in addition to technically required cookies, analysis cookies and marketing cookies. You can decide which cookies to use by selecting the appropriate options below. Please note that your selection may affect the functionality of the service. Further information can be found in our privacy policy.
Technically required cookies
Technically required cookies: so that you can navigate and use the basic functions and store preferences.
Analysis Cookies
To help us determine how visitors interact with our website to improve the user experience.
Marketing-Cookies
To help us offer and evaluate relevant content and interesting and appropriate advertisement.