The Dress Code Dilemma

by ChessBase
2/20/2025 – Chess is an international game, and players of different cultures and backgrounds may be following diverse norms. Something that is highly valued in one culture might be viewed differently in another. So here is a question: does chess need a dress code? Magnus Carlsen was fined during the 2024 World Rapid & Blitz Chess Championship in New York for wearing jeans, and GM Zhu Jiner for wearing white laceless winter boots. Here's International Arbiter Shohreh Bayat's take on the subject.

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A Fine Line Between Rules and Expression

By IA Shohreh Bayat

Introduction
If you ask me to come up with regulations about dress codes, I simply cannot write one, but I can think of how to break wrong dress code regulations! Dress is more than just clothing—it is a form of self-expression, because the way a person dresses very often reflects their views and values, which can be a part of their culture and identity. Knowing this fact, it’s no surprise players resist a strict and inflexible dress code.

The Unique Nature of Chess: Does It Even Need a Dress Code?
Chess is a sport of the brain, and this factor alone distinguishes chess from all other physical sports. However, one question still remains: does chess need a dress code?

I believe this comparison with other sports can be fairer in team events, and we still may need a dress code in chess events for the sake of professionalism.

Diversity and Inclusion: The Core of Dress Code Reform
The keywords that need to guide us are: “diversity” and “inclusion.”

  • Diversity is about recognising, respecting and celebrating each other’s differences. A diverse environment brings together people from different backgrounds and mindset, which helps creating an innovative and creative culture.
  • Inclusion is about making sure that everyone feels welcome and valued. This can only be achieved when we are more conscious of our unconscious biases and learn to manage them.

My friend, Grandmaster Pontus Carlsson, once brought this to my attention: choosing a single colour such as “dark blue” is not suitable for the FIDE dress code, because it has not been designed for diverse skin tones.

Why Dress Codes Are Controversial in the Chess Community?
The first step in writing dress code regulations is to understand our community. The game of chess is an international one, where players belong to different cultures and backgrounds, all with their different sets of expectations and norms. This simply means that something which is highly valued in one culture might be viewed differently in another.

Sometimes, even a minor change can represent someone wrongly, and it counts as a “limitation to freedom of expression.” As someone who was forced to wear a mandatory headscarf for years, I can tell you how deeply sad this issue can be, because sometimes being misrepresented feels like you are losing a part of your identity.

Team Events and Dress Codes In team events, where players represent their country or club, a unified dress code can very often contribute towards their team-bonding. A uniform not only increases team spirit but also improves the overall image of the event. However, these uniforms should allow for some flexibility to respect cultural differences and personal preferences, ensuring that players feel both united and valued.

Learning From Recent Cases

The Anna-Maja Kazarian Sneakers: A Call for Fairness
During the 2023 FIDE Women's World Rapid and Blitz Chess Championship in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, Anna-Maja Kazarian, a very well-respected Woman International Master from the Netherlands, appeared in sneakers. Apparently, she was not expecting to be fined €100 for wearing “Burberry sneakers.” Therefore, she challenged FIDE’s decision on social media. The next day, Anna-Maja appeared in high heels! Whether as a deliberate statement or simply a forced move, her choice was thought-provoking. Are high heels somehow more appropriate for a chess tournament? This suggests a need for clearer and fairer dress code guidelines. One does not expect to be fined for wearing sports shoes in a sports competition—unless you argue that chess is not a sport!

The Magnus Carlsen Jeans: A Stand Against Overregulation
During the 2024 World Rapid & Blitz Chess Championship in New York, Magnus Carlsen appeared in jeans. The event's dress code banned jeans, therefore he was fined. “I got a fine which is fine, and then I got a warning that I would not be paired if I didn't go change my clothes.” He withdrew from the event after FIDE barred him from participating in a round. He explains: "I said I'll change tomorrow if that's OK, I didn't even realise it today', but they said, 'Well you have to change now'. At that point it became a bit of a matter of principle for me."

Zhu Jiner’s Dress Code Case
When Regulations Disrupt Play During the 2024 Women’s World Blitz Chess Championship in New York, Grandmaster Zhu Jiner, last year's bronze medallist, faced an unexpected dress code issue. Apparently, in the semi-final stage against Grandmaster R. Vaishali, a FIDE official told her that her white laceless winter boots violated regulations, and she would be fined $200 per game! She argued on social media that such an incident massively distracted her. It is even more surprising when you know that she had worn the same boots throughout the Rapid section without being approached by anyone. Zhu argued that she followed the official dress code policy, and that “arbitrary decisions based on personal discretion” disrupted her performance and affected the outcome of the tournament for her. At the end of the tournament, Zhu appealed the fine, and the Appeals Committee accepted her appeal, replacing the fine with a warning.

The Olympiads: A Showcase of Unity and Tradition
Olympiad is a great example of team events, in which many players proudly wear their uniforms. The flexibility applied in such events allowed a smooth run of the tournament. Especially, during the 2024 World Chess Olympiad in Budapest, Hungary, where some newly joined federations, such as Vanuatu, appeared in their unique costume, and took positive public attention.

From the ECU Magazine, January 2025, with kind permission.


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