A journey to Kathmandu

by Alina l'Ami
5/30/2018 – Jet-setting photojournalist and International Master ALINA l'AMI has collected her thoughts and pictures from remote Kathmandu, Nepal, and as far-flung a destination for a chess tournament as you're likely to see. Timeless, strange things, and a travellers Disneyland await.

To avoid them or to play them, you have to know them. In two Volumes we see gambits such as Frankenstein-Dracula Gambit, the Cochrane Gambit, the Belgrade Gambit, the King's Gambit, Marshall Gambit, the Scotch Gambit, the Jänisch Gambit and many more.

Timeless

Only a page-turn-away and I was there, in my wonderland, experiencing adventures and insights which I treasure up to this day. Until that fateful moment when my parents opened...an atlas, a book with so many pages to be read and travelled! This was when I started to devour the maps, to spin the small globe I'd been given. On rainy days I used to explore other faraway cities bearing magnificent names: Dar es Salaam, Ulaanbaatar or Kathmandu. Later I became a chess player. Still later I visited some of the places I had dreamed of as a child.

Boudhanath

In the heart of Nepal — Boudhanath, one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world

Stepping off the plane into Kathmandu was a pupil-dilating affair, a riot of sights, sounds and smells which quickly led to sensory overload. Incredible place but exhausting too. My guidebook insisted that the very first sighting of the legendary temples would take my breath away, but the dust, noise and temperature had done that already. All I could feel was tiredness, thirst and a tinge of white walls between advertising. This was not what I expected, Shangri-la is more than Adidas, Nike and Coca-Cola!

Cafe

Time to freak out?

Somehow, in that mayhem (sorry for not picturing it but more important was to survive crossing a street, any street!) I fell for Nepal.

Alice: "How long is forever?"
White Rabbit: "Sometimes, just one second."

IA Dharmendra and GM Kostya

Life is not perfect but it has perfect moments,
like this one shared with IA Dharmendra and GM Kostya

That's what I loved instantly about Kathmandu. The way it reminded me what I value about chess and travel, which isn't just points, dumb parties and beautiful beaches.

garment workers

(Chess) Life is tough, challenging and rewarding

Nepal characters

Nepal reminded me who I was and what I wanted

For starters, I wished for a good place in the 1st Kathmandu International Open. On their side, the organizers did their utmost to make that happen.

playing venue

Excellent playing conditions and even advice, free of charge

Stranger things

Just when I was about to say that's it, I found my heaven in my super classy room, darkness besieged me. One hour later, I was still regretting not having charged my devices properly.

Nepal has a long way to go when it comes to wiring and electrics. I don't want to be offensive here, it is a fact.

Sketchy electrical wiring

You will surely experience a power outage (or eleven) while exploring this otherwise incredible country

NOTE: Sometimes Nepal's WiFi connectivity was better than the one I have at home; besides, I've always used the classic pen and paper to write down my chess moves but in Kathmandu's Open you could do that digitally — check the collage above.

The first 'serious' power outage occurred when we were fighting the ever-vicious time troubles. Seconds later, it started up again. When suddenly — power cut out. Again. During those daily procedures, the Nepalis didn’t raise an eyebrow.

I admire that about the locals. Nothing seems to bother them, not even the power cutting out while they're playing chess or watching Netflix.

Wish I could blame electricity for what happened in my game against (what a coincidence!) a Nepali:

 
Black to move

How would you take back on g6? Around here I think the lights went off. Later on, I responded:

29...Bxg6?? trying to avoid at all costs a draw after 29...hxg6 30.Ne6 Bxe6 31.Qxg6+ with perpetual. I was playing against someone rated 300 points lower but that doesn't justify the suicidal decision.

30.Ne6 Qe7 (30...Ne2+ is only a temporary check 31.Kh2+-)
31.Nxf8 Qxf8 32.Qxf8+ Kxf8 33.Ra1 Bxd3 34.Rxa5 and the rest is no longer interesting 1-0 — some electrical brain disturbances happened here, I guess.

If they burn a candle, it means not only giving us light. It represents faith and hope. It means they welcome us in the warmth of their homes.

candle lighting

As a profound symbol of illumination, the candle was lit in the playing hall for what it also became: a great tournament

women in ritual

Restoring harmony with rituals

food stall

A Nepali outlook, pace and (tea) philosophy can prevent you being swamped by your problems. It feels somewhat 'easier' to take life day by day in Nepal.

Today is yesterday's tomorrow

Living in the moment is great but it has quite a few flaws too. After having soaked up the sun, life and culture, I donated 20 rating points, all lost in the morning rounds. Every single point I gained with hard work in Jersey, UK, vanished in the thin air of Kathmandu.

And it turned out I was not the only one to suffer on the chess board. The top seed, the experienced Russian GM Sergey Volkov, failed to win against an opponent more than 600 points lower rated and even endured a defeat against a 2200. That is not only painful but also a clear-cut example of how-you-should-not-play-in-India/Nepal-if-you-care-about-your-Elo.

chess players

The real strength of the players on this side of the globe is legendary, let alone the evil schedule of nine rounds in five days, plus 9 am morning chess pleasures

Three examples to demonstrate how things could go wrong even if the rating gap is pretty serious:

 
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16.Nxg6!? Brave and underestimated by computer! hxg6 17.Qxg6+ Kd8 18.e4 Nb4 18...Nc7!? Also leads to unclear play - 19.Be3 Kc8 20.Nc3 19.Be3 c5!? After the humble 19...Kc8 20.Qe8+ Qd8 21.Qxe6 Ra6 madhouse is on fire) 19...a4 could have been the best idea - to use own tramps . Though, such a move is easy only to suggest)) 20.dxc5 Qc6 21.Nc3 Ke7 22.Bf4 Nd3?? Looks like the fair outcome is draw after 22...Ne5! 23.Bxe5 fxe5 24.Qg5+ Kf7 25.Bf3 Nd3 26.Bh5+ Rxh5 27.Qxh5+ Kg8 28.Qg6+ Kh8 29.Qh5+ 23.Nd5+! Kd8 23...exd5 24.exd5 Nxf4 25.gxf4 is hopeless for Black. 24.Bc7+ Qxc7 25.Nxc7 Kxc7 26.c6! Bxc6 27.Rxc6+ Kxc6 28.e5+ Kb6 29.Qxd3 Nxe5 30.Qe4 Ra7 31.Rc1 Bc5 32.Rxc5 Kxc5 33.Qe3+ Kb4 34.Qxa7 Kxb3 35.Qxa5 b4 36.Qa6 Re8 37.Bc6 Nxc6 38.Qxc6 Rd8 39.Qxe6+ Kc3 40.Qxf6+ Rd4 41.Kf1 b3 42.Ke2 b2 43.Ke3 b1Q 44.Qxd4+ 1–0
  • Start an analysis engine:
  • Try maximizing the board:
  • Use the four cursor keys to replay the game. Make moves to analyse yourself.
  • Press Ctrl-B to rotate the board.
  • Drag the split bars between window panes.
  • Download&Clip PGN/GIF/FEN/QR Codes. Share the game.
  • Games viewed here will automatically be stored in your cloud clipboard (if you are logged in). Use the cloud clipboard also in ChessBase.
  • Create an account to access the games cloud.
WhiteEloWBlackEloBResYearECOEventRnd
Neelash,S2212Volkov,S25981–02018D30Kathmandu Open International GM Chess T4.9
Sandipan,C2579Thing,B22631–02018E43Kathmandu Open International GM Chess T3.1
Kasparov,S2462Gajwa,A22921–02018C77Kathmandu Open 20184.5

A similar fate but maybe less distressing was experienced by the second seed, Sandipan Chanda. The Indian GM didn't lose any of his games but the last three round's draws against his lower rated compatriots didn't propel him onto the podium either. For the third seed, the GM Deep Sengupta, everything seemed working according to plan until he met his young IM colleague, Harsha Bharathakoti. This loss was surely deeply regretted by Deep but not by the well-deserved tournament winner.

Harsha Bharathakoti

Clear first with an undefeated 7½/9!

It should be mentioned that Harsha gave a glimpse of his talent in the 2017 Isle of Man edition, where he made a GM norm with one round to spare. Now we are vaccinated, we're no longer surprised by his unshared tournament win and we expect much more in the near future.

Three highly dynamic examples for your eye to revel in:

 
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18...Be7 18...Bxf3! This is the most dangerous pal - Black realized it much later! 19.Qxf3 Nb6 20.Bc1 Nd5 with a solid position. 19.Bc1 Qd8 20.h4‼ Before White's last move, Black was enjoying the position's nature:) Bxh4 C'mon, I'll take it! 21.Kh2‼ OUCH!:) Be7 21...f5 22.exf6 Qxf6 23.Be4 Bd5 24.Kh3! 24.Rh1 g5 25.Kg1 Rf7 24...g5 25.Nh2! Was considered lost by Black during the game, and even after the suggestion of the relentless piece of metal- Qh6 26.Ng4 Qh5 27.g3 Bxg3+ 28.Kxg3 Qh4+ 29.Kg2 Rf4‼ 30.Nh6+‼ Qxh6 31.Bxd5 exd5 32.Bxf4 gxf4 33.Qg4+ I'm not sure Black could get dry out of the water) 22.Rh1 f5? 22...Re8! 23.Kg1!? 23.Bxh7+ Kxh7 24.Kg1+ Kg8 25.Ng5 Bxg5 26.Qh5 f6 27.Qh8+ Kf7 28.Qh5+= 23...Nf8 24.Rh3∞ 23.exf6 Rxf6 24.Kg1 Bxf3? 24...Nf8 25.Ne5 Rf5‼∞ 25.Bxh7+ Kf7 26.gxf3 g6 26...Nb6 27.Bg5 Nd5 28.Bxf6 Bxf6 29.Qe4± 27.d5 Rc5 28.Bg5 Rxd5 29.Rxd5 exd5 30.Bxf6 Bxf6 31.Qc2 During the game (in a mutual time trouble) White overlooked that after 31.f4! Qe7 32.Bxg6+ is winning. Kxg6 33.Qg4+ Kf7 34.Rh7+ 31...Ne5 32.Bxg6+ 32.f4 Nd3 33.f5 Qe7 34.Bxg6+ Kg8∞ 32...Nxg6 33.Rh7+ Bg7 34.Qf5+ Qf6 35.Qxd5+ Kf8 ½–½
  • Start an analysis engine:
  • Try maximizing the board:
  • Use the four cursor keys to replay the game. Make moves to analyse yourself.
  • Press Ctrl-B to rotate the board.
  • Drag the split bars between window panes.
  • Download&Clip PGN/GIF/FEN/QR Codes. Share the game.
  • Games viewed here will automatically be stored in your cloud clipboard (if you are logged in). Use the cloud clipboard also in ChessBase.
  • Create an account to access the games cloud.
WhiteEloWBlackEloBResYearECOEventRnd
Harsha,B2424Tarlev,K2549½–½2018E12Kathmandu Open International GM Chess T6.1
Sengupta,D2579Harsha,B24240–12018C54Kathmandu Open International GM Chess T8.1
Harsha,B2424Mirzoev,A2504½–½2018E06Kathmandu Open International GM Chess T9.1

prize giving

The winners, sponsors and organizers. Oh boy...where do I start, without offending anyone?!
(The overall winner is missing though, as he had to catch his flight)

An attempt to organize this chaos — thanks to the Homeland Sports Club (President: Prakash Adhikari, and Secretary: Sanjeev Pudasaini) & Nepal Chess Association (Tournament Director: Bidur Prasad Gautam and IA + looking after us, the foreigners, Umesh KC), a beautiful first edition has been successfully completed. And the main sponsor, KNP Japan, promises us at least two more to come!

Traveller's Disneyland

I may be on the podium but that doesn't mean I deserve being there judging by my tournament rating chart.

However, it is not all lemons and sour grapes and mountains you'll fail to climb. Some players adapted instantly to the local customs and spirit. The Azeri GM with a predestined name, Azer Mirzoev, found his peace once he managed to squeeze in a quick spiritual stroll around centuries-old stupas and finished on a second place with an undefeated 7/9.

Buddhist temple

This is part of what Azer contemplated atop a hill in the Kathmandu Valley: the Buddhist temple Swayambhunath

Monkey Temple

Since that for me is rather difficult to pronounce, I rely on its 2nd name: the Monkey Temple

A shared 2nd position but with an inferior tiebreak was claimed by the unique GM, the Ukrainian Konstantin Tarlev, whose headquarters were around...the swimming pool. Either he was testing the water or practising yoga.

GM Kostya

Kostya didn't fail to blend in

Weirdly enough, Konstantin's approach to life was completely different before playing in Kathmandu. The "choleric" as he described himself, suffered a major transformation in the mythical aura of Nepal — a bit of yoga, five hours of sleep, big smile and lots of sunrises, that's all it takes to be happy.

old man

Learning from the Masters
It is not things but moments that make this life worth living

Back to the future

3 am, 14th April 2075 (!?) — Kathmandu, Nepal

As for your author, just when I was about to roam around my world of dreams and find Shambhala, I was brought back to reality. Abruptly.

Continued in part 2...
 


Alina is an International Master and a very enthusiastic person in everything she does. She loves travelling to the world's most remote places in order to play chess tournaments and report about them here on ChessBase! As chance would have it Alina is also an excellent photographer.

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