Roadtrip to Reno

Roadtrip to Reno - the Biggest Little City in the World

By Alex Yermolinsky

“You take me on 80,
Along a California trail,
To Reno,
I know you're waiting there...”

"The Biggest Little City in the World." That's what the sign over Virginia Street says, and Hollywood loves it. Reno has been featured in many movies, from Marylin Monroe's “The Misfits”, to Clint Eastwood's “Pink Cadillac”, all the way to a 2006 shoot 'em up “Smoking Aces”, albeit the latter was actually set at Lake Tahoe, which is about an hour away by car.

The usual plot often involves main characters being on the run from both the law and the mob, driving fast on desert highways, and eventually, holing up in some run-down desert motel for the final showdown with the bad guys. If you're into this kind of cinematic experience (I am), then take my word, you will enjoy “Kill Me Again” with Val Kilmer and his former wife, Joanne Whalley-Kilmer. It's the ultimate Reno movie.

“I passed the Sierra Nevada,
Like a Holy Grail,
You beckon a beacon,
There you are”

Located just across the state line, Reno has long served as an attraction for the San Francisco Bay Area visitors. Anything from being able to smoke indoors to getting married (or divorced) in one day is a stark contrast with the over-taxed and over-regulated Golden State. Many a California resident liked Reno so much that they ended up moving there.

The statue known as the Burning Man Butterfly represents the yearly music festival known as Burning Man that takes place in the Nevada Desert. It is a unique festival that encourages participation and inclusion by all (not just performers).

A great backdrop of the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains (Donner Pass on Interstate 80 hits 7,000 feet) and the Truckee River that streams through downtown provide the unique Western feel for this town of some quarter of million people. It's not just the casinos. Reno boasts the University of Nevada campus, a burgeoning art scene, and the World's coolest River Walk.

“Magnetic, seductive, attractive, like no other love.
Reno, silver and gold”

It's only fitting that chess found a place for itself in such a wonderful city. Full credit for making it happen goes to the local chess enthusiast Jerome “Jerry” Weikel, who started the tradition in 1983 with the Reno Open and kept it going ever since! It takes a big man to pull it off, but even Jerry couldn't do it alone. It is truly a family-run tournament. Meet the Weikels.

Right of Jerry: wife Fran, granddaughter Lucy, daughter Dana, son-in-law Adam, grandson Thomas

Sometime in the 1990's the main event, which takes place in October, was renamed into the Western States Open and found its permanent home at the Sands Regency Casino and Hotel. Then around 2005 a sister tournament, originally called the Far West Open and held over Easter Weekend, was added to the calendar. From 2012 onward it carries the name of Larry Evans, a famous American Grandmaster, who spent his sunset years in Reno and died there in 2010.

Jerry's contributions to the US chess scene are widely recognized and appreciated

The events of 2004 and 2005 were graced by the appearance of Boris Spassky, who would have made it again in 2006, but health issues forced him to cut his visit to San Francisco short. Boris's lectures and simuls, and even more, his stories and great personal touch, are fondly remembered by us, the Weikel Tournament regulars.

“You break me, you take me,
Into the valley of the Sun.
I'm helpless, no power, in your spell”

I debuted at the Western States Open back in 1994, played there practically every year when I lived in California, made it back a few times after moving to South Dakota, and this year celebrated my 20th chess tournament in Reno. And what a way of celebration it turned out to be!

Final Standings

1. Alex Yermolinsky   5/6
2-4 Elshan Moradiabadi, Nick De Firmian, Enrico Sevillano  4.5/6
5-6 Melik Khachiyan and John Daniel Bryant 4/6.... (35 players in Open Section, 227 total).

The game that put me on the winning track is here.

Andy Lin vs Alex Yermolinsky

Map showing where the players are from (click for high-res)

As life in open tournaments goes, a lot depends on the luck of draw. This was a magical event for me, as the two short draws I made with Elshan and Melik not only provided the much-needed rest, but also set me up for a favorable last round encounter.

Alex Yermolinsky vs Ray Kaufman

In the meantime, on Board 1 Moradiabadi couldn't overcome veteran Sevillano; while on Board 2 Khachiyan was getting outplayed by De Firmian, who made a surprise appearance in Reno. 

Nick, pictured above playing a visitor from Duluth, Minnesota, Dr. Okey Iwu, doesn't play much these days

It was nice to see Nick back in the saddle, and the following game shows he hasn't completely lost his touch. Thanks to Melik Khachiyan for providing the notes, it's really classy to be willing to do this when you lose a heartbreaking last round game.

Nick De Firmian vs Melik Khachiyan (annotated by Melik Khachiyan)

So, when it was all said and done, I stood alone on the winners podium, which in Reno means standing by the cashier's cage.

Sorry, no oversized check for me, but I'll take the cash

.“Your beauty, temptation, they tell me that you are the one.
Reno, silver and gold”

Obviously, there are pros and cons of holding a chess event in a casino. Chess players are notorious of trying their luck outside of the chess table, and having the other kinds of tables readily available is a dangerous temptation for some. From David Janowski to Alex Wojtkiewicz and many others in-between, there are sad stories about them dropping their tournament winnings - the modest compensation for days of work at the chessboard – at the green clothed tables in a matter of few short hours.
Yet, there are certain advantages, such as having food and drinks available round the clock. Sometimes, after a tough late night game, it is simply impossible to fall asleep when chess variations keep swarming in your head. In such circumstances, a 2 o'clock breakfast of steak and eggs, followed by a drink or two, while dropping $20 at a video poker machine, may actually help to salvage your tournament. It wasn't needed for me in this visit, but who can tell what will happen in October at the Western States?

“So Reno, you will not completely ever set me free.
Reno, silver and gold”

(Lyrics by Asia)